Guide - Rope Bondage
Learn about rope bondage and how to preform it safely with this guide.
This section is a draft, expect errors and issues. Infographics will be added later.
What is Rope Bondage?
It is the process of taking a rope and using it to restrain an individual. The word bondage is important, it means “The practice of being physically restrained, as with cords or handcuffs, as a means of attaining sexual gratification.”. There are forms of rope work that are not necessarily bondage, like some Shibari for example. Rope bondage fills the need for a bottom’s desire to be restrained to bed, or themselves. There are countless types of knots, frictions, styles and methods that make rope bondage a true deep dive for those who are curious. This page will go through the basics of rope bondage, to set you on a good path.
Shibari Bondage
Shibari 縛り is a longstanding Japanese art that literally means “To Tie” rope bondage and Shibari share many similarities. This guide will cover rope bondage, but Shibari can be very rewarding over traditional rope bondage because it is creating a form of art with your bottom that you can experience together. Shibari is rope bondage, but rope bondage is not always Shibari! If you’re interested, be sure to look into Shibari work at the end of this guide.
Do I need a Bottom to do bondage?
It’s recommended to at least learn wrist restrains and other basics forms of bondage on yourself before trying it on someone else. While you will not be able to complete all the things you may want, you can learn a lot on yourself and be quite surprised. Doing bondage on yourself is a good way to feel how tight you should be doing your knots, and get an understanding of what works and what does not for your style. Understand the limitations though, and don’t tie yourself into a pickle! Keep in mind, just like tying someone else’s shoelaces, things can become flipped around in person so be prepared for that!
What kind of rope should I get?
Not all rope is equal, when venturing to buy your first be careful of where you source it. While cotton is a good choice to buy, it requires not that much effort to find an okay one. Jute and Hemp, require far more stringent searching to find a good candidate. The main reason for this is rope treatment, this is what separates hemp/jute from the pennies on the dollar bundles you see on Amazon, to being 1-3$ a foot like a proper bondage set. Cheaper ropes come untreated, with some having strong smells of chemicals agents, some even contain kerosene! This is not an issue for arts and crafts, but it’s far from ideal due to the carcinogens found in these untreated products. Ropes are often NOT treated, expect it NOT to be unless labeled. Etsy is a good place to look to for, because many sellers explain their process, the key word you want to look for is conditioned (or treated). Rope treatment is a concern for hemp/jute, but NOT a concern for cotton generally, if this seems confusing to you I recommend using cotton rope first. I personally would heed caution for any general store, big store, amazon etc… unless you are sure about the product. I recommend Etsy, you can find many local BDSM makers, otherwise companies like Twisted Monk have been in the game for a long time and can be relied upon and used out of the box if you want to go with a trusted brand.
Buying Your Rope
Rope Sizes
- Under 5mm - Has some use in the genital areas, but should be avoided otherwise unless you have a need for it.
- 5mm (~3/16 inch) - Can be better for more intricate bondage, or very petite figures. Quite similar to 6mm overall.
- 6mm (~1/4 inch) is the most common size most people use, it is easy to work with and can do a little bit of everything.
- 8mm (~5/16 inch) is the second most common, this is a thicker look that can be better for larger body figures/muscular types. It can accomplish everything 6 mm can, with a bit more work. Often the size riggers use in suspension work, meaning it’s plenty strong!
- 10mm+ (~3/8 inch) is niche, unless you’re going for a certain look for aesthetic reasons. The benefit of 10 mm is not necessary. Keep in mind, thicker the rope, the thicker the knots get. It can make working with this rope rather hard.
Some Rope Things To Avoid
- Smelly Ropes - Some ropes may be treated with kerosene, or other harsh chemicals. These are fairly common to find on sites like Amazon and eBay. If it smells bad, do not to use it! Rope should smell closer to a natural fiber, as many are. Even some natural hemp ropes can be treated with kerosene! Expect to pay around ~$1+ a foot for a good rope, otherwise the rope may have not been treated (for natural fiber ropes like hemp/jute).
- Poly Rope - Often found at Walmart, and hardware stores. It’s often bright, with a plastic feel to it. This rope is problematic for several reasons. It does not hold frictions well (meaning rope slides past itself), it’s uncomfortable and it does not hold knots.
- Coconut Rope - Scratchy feel, but can be desirable for that effect for sadism.
- Sisal rope - Same issue as coconut rope.
- Nylon Rope - While braided nylon has some uses, it’s rather hard to work with and finding the right rope can be hard. It has a slippery texture, which some love or hate.
Cotton Rope
- Flexible, soft and good for beginners
- Easy to shop for online, has less surprise concerns.
- It’s important to avoid cotton rope with a hard inner core (more common in hardware stores etc..).
- Bad choice for suspension/high tension situations.
- Great choice for beginner bottoms who may have never been tied up before.
- Not ideal for those who put up a fight/struggle.
- Can form overly tight knots in some cases - Its stretch can cause tight knots to bind up, requiring a bit more effort to undo.
- Hard to cause rope burn.
- Good at holding frictions.
Jute Rope
- Mass produced rope may have chemical smells and be unusable, or have to be treated manually.
- It has teeth, meaning the rope is better at holding knots and doing frictions.
- Can be a problem with people with grass allergies and can cause redness.
- Hard to cause rope burn.
- Great at holding frictions.
Hemp Rope
- It has teeth, meaning the rope is better at holding knots and doing frictions.
- Heavier than jute.
- Can be a problem with people with grass allergies and can cause redness.
- Hard to cause rope burn.
- Great at holding frictions.
Nylon Rope
- One of the strongest ropes materials (generally).
- Nylon does better at not holding fluids as much. Great idea for vaginal/cock/ball torture or otherwise sweaty/wet moments. It’s also far easier to clean.
- Only certain styles, like braided nylon are far better.
- Does not hold knots the best, and can be hard to work with.
- Does not hold frictions well.
- Can cause rope burn.
- Easy to clean and resistant to most things.
Rope Care
Rope Whipping
Is the practice of treating your rope’s ends to prevent fraying/separation, not hitting someone! This is important as you are likely to cut your rope to a manageable size because links can come in at 30 ft or more, learning how to take care of it in a cut state is important! There are several styles of rope whipping, with tons of videos online. Generally it’s done with a fine rope like a craft twine or small nylon rope, that can wrap itself around the size of your rope multiple times.
Rope Treating / Conditioning
It is what you’re paying for when you buy nice bondage rope that has natural fibers (jute/hemp etc…). Treatments vary, but involve being washed, air dried with tension applied (very important), apply natural oils etc… Some may scorch off the stray hairs with a torch. You will hear this process as being “conditioned or treated”. If possible, find ropes that explain their treatment to you. Etsy is a good place to look to for, because a lot of sellers explaining their process.
Personal Rope
All ropes have some ability to absorb fluids (some more than others), while sweat is not a major concern. There is a major concern when bottoms are interested in genital/facial bondage. Sharing rope used in this way across multiple people is unsanitary and potentially risky. Many riggers require what is called “Personal Rope” for these kinks. Personal rope is meant to be used on those problematic areas by one person only. Riggers may name a rope for that person and store it themselves, or a bottom may carry their own rope to a scene.
Safety Basics
Doing any suspension as a beginner is simply unsafe and do not do it! This guide will not cover this, you will need to find that education elsewhere as you grow more. An important rule in rope bondage is to AVOID creating knots that self tighten, these create the most problematic issues for new and experienced riggers. Ideally, all bondage should use rope knots/frictions that are set at a desired level by the rigger and can be controlled. Many knots are self tightening, such as those in the sailing community, so be cautious where you source your rope guides from when starting out! Within bondage sometimes things happen, your bottom may have a panic attack, even worse your bottom might feel light-headed, or pass out. All of these are significant concerns, and you need a way to quickly undo any restraints. It’s mandatory to get “Paramedic Shears” or “EMT Shears” or “Trauma Shear” (they are the same). These will allow you to quickly cut rope without the concern of using sharp scissors that could injure someone further. You do not want to be using sharp scissors if your bottom is having a panic attack. I recommend testing them on your rope and making sure they are up to the quality and can cut it before putting them in an accessible spot near your scene (or on yourself). Please do not use them for anything else (like cutting paper, hair, plastic containers etc..) you want the pair to be generally unused, so they stay as sharp as possible for when they are needed. Consider buying multiple pairs, they are quite cheap.
Nerves (Being Safe Part Two)
You need to understand basic human anatomy like circulation, nerves and signs of potential problems. Cotton is good starter rope because it has a more stretch to it, so people can fight it a bit more if they are uncomfortable and feel a bit more free and be able to tell if something feels not right.
Warning Signs (Basics)
If a bottom feels odd shooting pains, hot, cold and itches are all possible indications of nerves or circulation points issue. The rule of thumb, every feeling of “weirdness” should be addressed by the rigger, especially as a beginner it’s good practice. Nerves and circulation issues do not necessarily hurt and can be very hard to recognize before it becomes a larger problem, often leading many to feel a false sense of safety. This is why it’s important to understand basic body physiology, to prevent issues before they happen.
The Checklist
- Is everyone feeling physically well? Absolutely NEVER partake in bondage if anyone is feeling unwell, especially the rigger.
- Is everyone well-fed/hydrated? Lack of food/fluids can cause individuals to pass out!
- Is everyone drug free? Drugs cause unsafe/dangerous situations and should be avoided.
- Does the bottom have prescription drugs, are they present? Inhaler, EpiPen etc… More important, has the bottom explained how to administer these, if they are unable to?
- Is the bottom free of diseases, mental or physical illness or injuries that could cause issues? Joint/bone problems, asthma, panic disorders, epilepsy.
- Have limits/goals been discussed? It’s important to communicate first.
- Is everyone informed of the risk/concerns in bondage, and know what to watch out for? Like range of mention test (see below).
Range Of Motion Test
One popular and recommended way to see if your bottom is safe is to do a “Range of Motion” test. Ask your bottom to clench their hand into a fist with their thumb inside their hand. As well as expand their fingers out as much as possible, creating a web with their hand. If a bottom struggles to expand their fingers to form a fist this indicates nerves have too much pressure, and you need to loosen the possible nerve points until your bottom regains range of motion. The test will vary depending on the limbs you have bound of course, but if at any point the bottom is unable to move their fingers/toes for no apparent reason, this is a clear warning sign nerves are being blocked by the rope’s pressure and immediate action is needed. The test will vary from limbs being tied, so if your bottom encounter mobility/issues unrelated to what is currently bound by rope, take action and figure out what is going on.
Circulation Issue (Problem)
- Sleepy/tingle feeling (think foot falling asleep).
- Pins and needles.
Nerve Compression Issue (Serious Issue)
- Your partner currently has their arms/shoulders or wrist bound. These nerve channels are some of the most surface leaning ones.
- Your partner has rope around their leg/knee joints, while less common due to more muscle/fat it’s possible to compress them.
- The bottom’s hand feels different on one side of a hand, vs. the other side.
- The discomfort is isolated in different zones, like having the ability to move/feel your pinky, but not your thumb.
Nerve compression issues are most common when the wrist, arms (lower and upper/shoulder) are bound. This is because these nerves are some of the least protected, meaning it’s possible to block them by mistake. For those interested in visual video, this is a good one that I think many will find useful.
Nerve Damage (Serious Issue)
Nerves can be broken down into two functions, they control the motor function allowing you to move while also allowing sensory perception allowing the feeling of touch. These systems work alongside each other and may both present issues to a person, other times the damage may show signs for one system, but not another. Other times, the injury may show no signs at all.
Nerve injuries DO NOT carry painful signs. This is a common misunderstanding, something beginners need to be mindful of and why nerve education is important. The pain an individual feels can often be secondary to the nerve injury.
Nerve damage is not something that heals easily, and can be permanent. It’s important to understand nerve compression and what it is, so you can stop it so nerve damage, so it never occurs. It’s a risk every bottom takes, no one is as capable as the bottom for stopping nerve damage early. Bottom’s need to understand this aspect and how to tell if it is occurring. It’s difficult for even good riggers to 100% able to prevent nerve compression totally, as nerves can position themselves differently across different individuals. Communication and checks is important to catch nerve compression early, before it becomes damage. Many who are serious about being rope bottoms have (or will) encounter some nerve damage event in their life, often people can heal out of that given plenty of time, but this is not always true. Be sure to protect yourself! If nerve damage does occur, individuals can have lasting motor/sensory issues. Issues can persist for hours, days, months, decades or a lifetime. Nerves have some ability to heal (in a way) overtime, but this has an uncertain outcome unlike most healing in the body we come to expect.
Range of Motion Test / Video
Source: YouTube @ShibariStudyFaints (Serious Issue)
- Low blood sugar.
- Improper breathing.
- Too hot.
- Abrupt change of position.
- Being in one position too long.
If a bottom faints, remove any sensory gags/blindfolds and establish communication, comfort them, be calm and help them. If possible, raise their legs up so blood flow can quickly supply the brain to help them regain attention. Individuals will regain attention in a few seconds. Despite what may be common sense to untie/cut the ropes as soon as possible, this is NOT the priority/needed in most cases. Rope bondage does not generally do not constrict arterial blood flow or air flow, thus are not the main cause to fainting. The panic/cutting ropes could be more harmful than the fainting itself! The priority is to help the person regain attention, and comfort them. As they come back, its recommended to loosen any restrains and discuss what happened, and come up with a plan. Stopping entirely for the day is recommended.
If there is uncertainty, dial back the scene and consider stopping for the day.
Rope Marks
- The most common thing you will see in rope work, and is normal.
- Represented by a redness/whiteness color across the skin where the rope was bound. The discoloration to the skin will go away within a few hours or less.
- Long sleeve shirts or tying off in hidden places are possible workarounds.
Rope Burn
- Certain ropes cause burn more than others.
- To prevent it, ensure pull rope is always puled slowly across the skin during frictions, or when tightening knots. Rope burn when manage properly is not a major concern.
Petechiae
- Caused by high pressure being applied to the skin, causing blood vessels to break. It’s a type of light surface bruise.
- Similar to bruises, but display itself as small dots across the affected area.
- Using RICE (Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation) method, they will disappear on their own over the course of a few weeks.
Hematoma / Bruising
- Is when blood vessels under the skin break, causing blood to pool under the skin causing discoloration.
- Some individuals are more prone to hematomas than others.
- Using RICE (Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation) method, they will disappear on their own over the course of a few weeks.
Terms you may hear
- Bight - Middle of your rope, bite is more important for shibari methods,
- Frictions - When rope is held together by itself by friction. Think like rope tired around your wrist, with a rope inside that. That would be a friction, because friction is holding the rope in place.
- Link - Term used to rope, IE: “I have a 30ft link of Jute”.
- Fid / Marlin Spike - Is a tool for knot work, it’s a spike that allows you to get into a knot and manipulate them. If you’re someone with dexterity/strength issues, or have trouble with getting knots undone generally, this can be worth looking it.
- Rope conditioning / treatment - Process of removing chemicals, the smell and loosening the raw natural fiber of Jute and Hemp style ropes to be able to be used in bondage.